If you want to get a glimpse of Pele, the goddess of fire who dwells in the craters of Big Island’s Kilauea Volcano, you will have to sail by during the night. Seeing lava flow into the sea is on every tourists’ mind when visiting the Big Island in Hawaii. To get close to seeing red hot lava, most tourists flock to the Volcano Park, hoping to catch a glimpse of sputtering lava from Kilauea.
We were among these tourists and had the same goal, which is to see red hot flowing lava. Our adventure began with a drive to the Volcano Park from Kona. The park is not very far from Kona but because the highway winds through several small towns, the driving limit is below 55 mph at times. After an hour drive, you reach the Volcano Park. From the visitor center, you drive the Chain of Craters road, which circles the entire park and traces around the rim of a large crater. There is a lot to explore around the rim, such as the Volcano House, an old establishment that has a commanding view of the crater. You can also drive around the crater and see vents where poisonous fumes rise high up into the air.
To access the coast, you continue on the Chain of Craters road, passing by lava flows from past years. You know you have reached the end of the road when you see the 2003 lava flow and how it crossed and buried the road. Street signs can still be seen buried in the lava.
Park your car on either side of the road, knowing that there is no parking by the ranger station. Plan on bringing plenty of drinking water and hiking gear which includes long pants (ie. jeans), warm clothing, a waterproof jacket, umbrella, a flashlight and gloves. I know it almost sounds like you are preparing for winter but when you descend 3700 feet on the Chain of Craters road to the coast, the temperature drops a few degrees. It’s as though another weather system takes over. Flash rain can occur at any time and lava becomes extremely slippery when it is wet. Wearing gloves will protect your hands in case you slip. The lava field is not a very friendly environment. The best way to describe the lava field is to remember back to the hit movie, Armageddon starring Bruce Willis. The meteor they landed on, had a sharp jagged landscape and any contact to edges will easily slice through any exposed fabric.
The first half hour would be easy. I had to watch every step and was very careful not to walk into or slip into a skylight. Skylights are exposed holes that lead into a lava tube below. Some of the skylights were large enough that it could hold several cars in it. The ranger warned us that it would take at least two hours to hike to a spot where we would safely view lava as it flowed and entered the ocean. Obviously, we would still be a mile or so away from the actual flow. We were also warned not to hike near the coast because a whole section of the coast had slipped into the ocean a few weeks back.
After an hour into our hike, we could see the white fumes caused by lava entering into the ocean but we were still too far away to see any lava. As we turned to resume our hike, the clouds over us opened up and poured buckets on us. Suddenly, the lava was too treacherous for us to navigate. The lava had become slick and was like black ice. Our best hiking boots had no traction nor grip. Disappointed, we had to turn back and make our way to our car. Pele was not going to allow us to go further.
Three weeks later, my brother-in-law took to the sky on a helicopter ride to circle the Kilauea Volcano. Weather was harsh and prevented the helicopter to hover over the crater. The pilot decided to follow the flow to the ocean, hoping that his passengers can get a glimpse of the lava as it entered the ocean. But there was too much whiteness from the rising fumes to clearly see anything.
That same evening, the cruise ship that my brother-in-law was on, sailed into the night past Kilauea. From a distant, passengers onboard their cruise ship was rewarded to a show they would never forget. Red hot lava was flowing down the mountain and was quickly engulfed once it hit water. The reddish glow from the lava lit up the clouds. Few knew that another island was being formed.
There are some very good resources on flowing lava from Kilauea on the web. Before this blog was published, Kilauea was once again threatening the Royal Gardens subdivision on the Big Island. That’s how unpredictable Pele can be.
If you are interested in cruising the Hawaiian Islands and having a chance to see Kilauea up close (and personal), please look at the article where to find the best travel deals to book your cruise.
shoes. The Newport sandal is rugged enough to hike over lava. I especially like the Keen’s signature toe cap that is mandatory when hiking around lava because one false move and your toes can easily get cut up. The uppers is waterproof and the lycra neoprene lining will keep my feet comfortable during the long ho
urs climbing up and down the rocks.
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